The Real Story Behind Sulfites

If you’ve ever taken a moment to read the label on a bottle of wine, you’ve likely noticed the phrase “Contains Sulfites.” I’ve found that many customers of France 44 are on the quest to find wines without sulfites over health concerns, “wine headaches”, or simply because they don’t want them in their wines. But what exactly are sulfites, and what is their role in the winemaking process? 

Sulfites, also known as sulfur dioxide, are chemical compounds often used as antimicrobials and antioxidants in many foods and beverages. It would be impossible to make a wine that is entirely sulfite-free, because SO2 is formed by the metabolic action of yeast during alcoholic fermentation. 

So, how are sulfites used in winemaking? Because of their antioxidative properties, many winemakers choose to add small amounts of sulfur dioxide during various stages of the winemaking process. It is most frequently added to freshly picked grapes during crushing and pressing because it can deactivate enzymes that catalyze oxidation- leading to brown juice and modified aromas and flavors. Winemakers may also commonly add small amounts of SO2 at bottling because of sulfur dioxide’s natural antimicrobial properties.  

Now that we have a general scientific understanding of what sulfites are and how they are used in wines, let’s examine a few myths surrounding them: 

  • Many people assume red wine contains more sulfites than white wine, when it is (typically) the opposite. As I mentioned previously, oxidation can alter color (usually resulting in a browning of the juice), flavors, and aromas. Winemakers will typically try to protect white wines from exposure to oxygen to preserve the fresh and fruity aromatic qualities of the grapes being used. There is typically a higher need for sulfur dioxide in these wines, because of its natural antioxidant quality.  
  • One of the most pervasive myths is that sulfites are responsible for the headaches some people experience after drinking wine. However, scientific evidence does not support this claim. Sulfite sensitivity typically results (especially in severe asthmatics) in respiratory symptoms, such as asthma attacks, rather than headaches. In fact, foods like dried fruits and processed meats contain higher levels of sulfites than wine, yet they are not commonly associated with headaches. The culprit behind wine-induced headaches is more likely to be the alcohol itself or dehydration. 
  • It is commonly assumed that organic wines do not contain any sulfites. If you’ve made it this far, we already know that it is impossible to make a sulfite-free wine since sulfur dioxide is a naturally occurring byproduct of fermentation. However, organically labeled wines typically contain lower levels or zero added sulfites due to various governmental regulations.  

So, what are some tricks to find wines on the shelf that might have lower sulfite levels?  

  • Wines with green “organic” or “biodynamic” labels on the France 44 wine shelf have been certified as such, and typically will contain fewer or no added sulfites. Just keep in mind that they will still contain small amounts of naturally occurring SO2. 
  • Dry red wines typically contain lower levels of added sulfites. For folks that experience headaches after drinking wine, I typically try to recommend organic, dry red wines with lower levels of alcohol. Try Alois Lageder Schiava from Northern Italy or Jolie Laide’s Glou d’Etat.  
  • “Zero-zero” wines, they’re so hot right now. These are wines that first contain zero added sulfites. Nothing is added or removed during the winemaking process that is not naturally present in the wine. This means no acidification agents, no color enhancers, no filtration, and no sulfur or commercially made yeast. Check out Where’s Linus Orange Wine and Ashanta Wines (there is even a sidra-style wine for the adventure-seekers). 

Earth-Friendly: Wine Beyond the Labels

Mary Certain

Mary is a wine enthusiast and Level 3 WSET graduate. She loves walking around Lake Harriet to admire all the happy pups, cooking with her foodie friends and family, and is extremely competitive about jigsaw puzzles.

Wine may technically be a luxury item vs. a necessity, but for many (myself included) it greatly contributes to the enjoyment of life, and is not something I’m looking to cut out. So, with our wine habit here to stay, how can we reduce the environmental impact of our consumption? As with most goals that seem too big or unclear, the important thing is to get started, do the best we can, and keep going!

Buzzwords (Organic, Biodynamic, Sustainably grown, Eco-friendly, etc.) can be a helpful place to start, but can also be redundant or confusing. Beyond that, many wines are made using the same conscientious techniques, and yet for one reason or another they don’t use these terms overtly. The following are a few other pieces I think about when seeking a wine that will be better for the Earth (and taste better, too!)

Vineyard Care

This encompasses everything from water use to pest control to soil stewardship, and beyond. Grape vines take years to mature and are high-maintenance to keep in healthy condition, annually producing the best possible fruit. 

So, I say the single best indicator of a sustainable wine is a wine-maker’s enthusiasm for the site and soil where their grapes are grown. When they have pride in the land they tend, they are judicious with their resources, cautious with interventions, and careful in how they manage the fruit once picked. They take a long-view approach and do what is best for the earth, because that same ground will continue to grow the vines for future years and they know exactly how special it is. 

Love of the land and masterful winemaking knowledge translates to a delightful bottle in Christina Gruner’s Veltliner Austria 2022. 

(Full disclosure; I happened to meet Christina recently and can vouch that she is a lovely gracious person as well as being a passionately responsible winemaker!)

Barrels

Using oak barrels to ferment and age wine is a longstanding tradition, but mature oak trees are a slow-growing resource and add significant cost as well. By using neutral (previously used) barrels for their wine, a winemaker can take advantage of the benefits of oak, allowing it to soften and gain complexity, but without imparting oaky flavor notes. 

This means the hard work of growing healthy grapes in the vineyard isn’t overshadowed by the wood and they are able to reuse existing barrels. Win(e)-win(e)! Queen of Sierra Amber Calaveras County 2023 uses only neutral oak for barrels (as do all wines from Forlorn Hope).

Packaging

This is where we as consumers have the most direct impact! Aside from packaging being a source of waste, the weight of heavy glass bottles is relatively high compared to alternatives and the space required to ship is double. 

If you’re serving wine for a large gathering, consider a boxed wine. The quality and range of options in boxes is constantly increasing as more people are appreciating this flexible option. And if serving a boxed wine feels too informal, simply transfer it into a lovely pitcher or carafe. Bandit Pinot Grigio from California is a great choice and a crowd pleaser!

The World of Pét-Nats

written by Karina Roe

This ancient method for making sparkling wine has become extremely popular over the past several years and has become a go-to for those looking for exciting new flavors and textures in their wine. From having a handful of bottles on our shelves to now dedicating an entire section (and wine class!) to this category, it’s clear that Pét-Nats are more than just a passing fad. Although “Pét-Nat” is a loosely defined term, wines labeled as such often (though not always) follow these general rules: 

  • Made using the Ancestral Method (part way through the first fermentation the wine is bottled and then the 1st fermentation finishes in the bottle resulting in carbonation) 
  • Bottled unfiltered/without disgorgement. Yes, there may be sediment or even chunks in your wine! It is harmless and will settle to the bottom of the bottle if undisturbed. (Or, do a gentle shake before opening to get it fully integrated!) 
  • Topped with a metal crown cap instead of the traditional sparkling wine cork. 
  • Often slightly lower in alcohol 
  • Less carbonation than traditional method sparkling wines like Champagne 

But just like any wine category, Pét-Nats vary widely in color, aroma, texture, and flavor: They can taste sour and funky like your favorite kombucha, or they can be reminiscent of a traditional sparkling wine. They can be bone-dry or semi-sweet. But as long as you like a little bubble to your wine, you’re sure to find a Pét-Nat that fits your palate.  

And if you’re not sure where to start, our Pét-Nat Party happening on August 8th is the perfect way to dive into this exciting collection of wines! You’ll get to learn the art behind Pét-Nat production and the unconventional techniques involved as you taste through some of our favorite producers. After a short guided tasting, you’ll enjoy a casual tasting environment at your own pace while you nibble on cheese and snacks. Seats are filling up fast, so don’t wait to register! Below are a couple class features that you can look forward to: 

Statera Cellars Pétillant Naturel 

Statera Cellars is owned and operated by two good friends in the Willamette Valley in Oregon. The base Chardonnay for this bottle was fermented in half neutral French oak and half tank until nearly dry, then put into one large tank to go through the rest of fermentation to achieve a well-balanced, salty, delicious, and quaffable bubbly. 

$34.99 - Buy Now!

Poderi Cellario La Grinozza Pét-Nat

This is part Pét-Nat, part “chillable red” and is made entirely from a light, high-acid red grape called Grignolino. Poderi Cellario hails from Italy’s Piedmont region—also home to heavy-hitters like Barolo and Barbaresco—but the younger generation presents “La Grinozza” as an alternative to introduce a wider wine audience to all the styles Piedmont is truly capable of. 

$21.99 - Buy Now!