written by Bennett

I’m calling it. Yes, it is unofficially the official start to stout season. This past weekend was one final hoorah of basking in the sun’s warmth, unburdened by layers of fleece and micro puff. But now, as we slip and slide into winter’s chilling grasp, like some sort of herd mentality it is the beer drinker’s natural instinct to reach for the dark beer in the fridge. Something comforting, warming, smooth. Something like an imperial stout. Have you tried one? These big, bold, unctuous concoctions that pour dark as a moonless night sky are the perfect evening beverage to cozy up with by the fireplace on a cold wintry evening.

Imperial stouts have become very popular seasonal offerings from American craft brewers since the style first really took off here in the early ‘90s. But they owe their heritage to the 18th century porter brewers in England, and a certain Russian empress. During this era the English were at the vanguard of dark beer brewing—brown ales, porters and “stout” porters were widely consumed in Britain’s pubs. Czarina Catherine the Great, the new leader of an expanding Russian empire, had reached a commercial treaty with the Brits in 1766. An unusual side effect of this agreement was Catherine’s development of taste for London stout.

Commerce between the countries was bolstered by regular shipments of “extra stout” porter from Henry Thrale’s brewery in Southwark to Catherine’s Russian imperial court. This sturdy, high-gravity brew likely reached around 12% abv and was well-hopped to balance the intense roasted malt character. Because of its relation to the imperial court, this style became known shortly thereafter as imperial stout.

While shipments to Russia and the Baltic region eventually diminished with world war, the style was kept alive by a handful of brewers in England and northern Europe. Its re-emergence to the mainstream came alongside the dawn of craft beer in America. Inspired by beers such as Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout from Britain, early craft brewers like Sierra Nevada, North Coast and Bell’s (to name a few) began brewing their own Americanized version of the style. Generally higher in alcohol and hopped to a higher degree, these American imperial stouts were the foothold for what is now a widely popular craft beer style.

Today you can find almost any imaginable variation of the imperial stout style, ranging from purist brews that tip the cap to history to an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink approach. One thing for sure is that imperial stouts still offer some of the most complex, intriguing flavor profiles available in craft beer.

Surly Darkness ’20 Russian Imperial Stout – $19.99/750ml

Very arguably the most popular imperial stout brewed in Minnesota. Drinking a snifter of Surly Darkness is like a rite of passage for any self-respecting Minnesota craft beer drinker. For many years the only way to obtain bottles was to attend Darkness Day or patiently wait for your liquor store’s small annual allocation. These days it is easier to find, but no less delicious. Bold,

roasted coffee and chocolate notes with an undercurrent of dark cherry and raisin and a decisively bitter finish.

Fair State / Barrel Theory Soft Pants Wood-Aged Imperial Pastry Stout – $6.49/16oz Can

Two local stalwarts got their mash paddles wet with this French toast-inspired imperial stout. This decadent brew features notes of vanilla, chocolate, French toast and warm baking spices. It’s sweet, boozy and delicious!

Alesmith Speedway Stout – $13.99/4pk 16oz Cans

A stout who’s numerous variants absolutely dominated Ratebeer and Beeradvocate top beer lists for years is still one of the best. Rich aromatic coffee notes from local roasters and intense waves of chocolate flavors are tempered by a smooth, creamy mouthfeel.

Wild Mind Winter’s Edge ’20 Imperial Stout – $13.99/750ml Crowler

Inspired by Mexican hot chocolate. Madagascar vanilla beans, cinnamon and ancho chiles contribute to a wonderful interplay of sweetness and warming spice. Brownie-like malt flavors are accented by a smoky spice and subtle raisin-y undertone.

Evil Twin Even More Jesus Imperial Stout – $12.99/4pk 16oz Cans

Like an iron fist in a velvet glove. Even More Jesus packs a prodigious punch of dark chocolate, coffee, dark fruit and muscovado sugar. The 12% abv is all too well-hidden, so be careful with the Jesus!

Is this list not long enough for you? Come ask a beer staff and we can show you tons of other great options for this style!

You have seen the commercials: a vendor shouting “ice cold beer, here” while navigating through the football stadium; two arctic explorers abseiling into a crevasse to chip an ice cold can of beer from the glacier, only to return it to the man waiting by the portable cooler at a tailgate; a frozen train of beer careening through snow-capped mountains to deliver refreshment. The voice actor bellows in with some nonsensical phrase like “cold-brewed the hard way” or “brewed with the purest water from melted icebergs.” Even if statements like these hold little barley-water, the marketers have done their job. Because what many beer consumers want is crisp, quenching, and ice cold.

While there are certainly occasions for beers of the variety mentioned above, I’ve got some good news to share. Not all lager beer needs to be consumed at near-freezing temperatures to taste acceptable. In fact, most classic styles of lagers should be enjoyed cold, but not ice cold. The colder a beverage is served, the harder it is for your gustatory system to perceive its true flavor. And most craft lagers have much flavor to offer!

So what makes a lager? The advertisements give you part of the picture. Lager beer is fermented at a cooler temperature than ales, then cold-conditioned or “lagered” for an extended period of time. The metabolic activity of lager yeast is much slower, but results in a more complete fermentation. Higher attenuation, or a greater percentage of sugars consumed by the yeast, leads to a drier, “crisper” beer. Because lager yeast imparts minimal characteristics into a beer, it is the quality and balance of malt and hops that is stage-center. There is nothing to hide behind in lager brewing, which further elevates my reverence when I find a quality example.

Lagers can come in a variety of styles and strengths: from the ultra-light, crisp, adjunct-laden macro lagers, to hop-accentuated pilsners, to smoke-infused rauchbiers, to the big, malty doppelbocks dubbed “liquid bread”. After sampling a variety of styles you will find the category has more to offer than at first glance. Many are even perfect for cold weather consumption, considering we just were blessed by Minnesota’s first major snowfall. So if you’re looking for something “cold-brewed”, consider a few of our favorite examples listed below:

Modist Soft Minute Single Malt Foeder-Aged Pilsner – $11.99/4pk Cans

Modist has been on a roll with its foeder-aged lager program, producing some of my favorite “crispy bois” in recent memory. Soft Minute is brewed with 100% malted wheat, a feat only accomplished by the brewery’s mash filter, leading to a pillow-y soft mouthfeel. It’s hopped with Triple Pearl and Citra hops for a delicate floral, peppery citrus note. The beer is finished in an egg-shaped oak foeder for a bit of structure on the palate.

Fair State Pils – $9.49/4pk Cans

This is head brewer Niko Tonks’ “desert island beer”, and I might have to agree. This brisk German-style pilsner has a grassy nose from Hallertau Mittelfruh hops, a dry quenching palate, and a surprisingly bitter finish that begs another sip. Yes, it’s available all year-round, but it’s a beer that the staff always keep coming back to.

Ayinger Jahrhundert Bier – $3.49/500ml Bottle

Brewed in celebration of Ayinger’s 100th anniversary, Jahrhundert Bier is a sparkling export-style lager worthy of the acclaim. Floral, honeyed aromas with an earthy, malt-driven palate and a spicy hop note on the finish. Extremely balanced and quaffable.

Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Marzen – $4.99/500ml

A beer that I think everyone must try in their lifetime, please take a chance on it! The original smoked beer from Bamberg, Germany is unlike anything else in the beer world. Its smokiness is imparted from smoking the malt over beechwood logs, offering aromas of campfire and smoked bacon. Do not be deterred upon first sip, as with each progressive glug the smoke becomes intertwined with layered bready malt notes. Drinking this beer brings you back in time.

Augustiner Brau Maximator Doppelbock – $15.99/6pk

This ruby-hued doppelbock is an excellent choice for cold, wintry days by the fire. Big and malty with aromas of toffee, plums and raisins. Malty expressions of brown bread and a bit of chocolate lead to a vinous, warming finish with extended notes of dark fruits.

We talk a lot about the weather here in Minnesota, it’s a go-to icebreaker that frequently segues into another Midwestern topic like the goin’ up nort’, fishing on da boat, or those darn mosquitos. And I just have to say, “It sure is a hot one, eh?” The beer staff have been taking refuge in the walk-in cooler where the temperature is cold but the atmosphere is warm and cozy. Approaching what looks to be a real steamy 4th of July weekend, we hope you and yours can find a nice comfy spot to hang out and crack a few crispy cold ones by the grill. Our local breweries have you covered with some of the finest summery brews to keep you refreshed over the holiday. Have a happy and safe-distanced 4th everyone.

ABLE OL’ TRUSTY LIGHT BEER — $12.99/12pk | “A light beer for drinking” accurately sums up the character of this 12 pack of liquid pounders, which comes equipped with a nice sturdy handle for lugging refreshment to the backyard, beach, boat, or wherever vacation takes you (socially distanced of course). Smooth and easy 100% malt base with a hint of hop fruitiness.

FAIR STATE / MODERN TIMES CRANKIN’ FOAMERS LAGER — $15.99/12pk | The brainchild of Minneapolis’ own Fair State Brewing Cooperative and San Diego’s Modern Times Beer. This “Slammin’ Lager” goes down easy like a macro beer but with more developed malt character and a prickly, quenching hop bitterness.

BLACK STACK FUGAZI ITALIAN-STYLE PILSNER — $8.99/4pk | Black Stack has gathered a wide following for their weekly drops of hazy IPAs and double IPAs, but this brewery has more than a few tricks up its sleeve. This Italian-style Pilsner—a relative of the German-style Pilsner—is refreshingly dry with a bright, hoppy finish from all Czech Kazbek dry-hopping.

SURLY HEAT SLAYER KÖLSCH-STYLE ALE — $8.99/6pk | The name says it all. Heat Slayer slices through the stickiness of Minnesota’s summers with ease. A style of beer native to Köln, Germany, Kölsch beer is a hybridized style—top-fermented with ale yeast then cold-conditioned like a lager. Heat Slayer has a well-attenuated bright bubble and clean, easy finish.

Thanks to a few dedicated importers, a recent surge of shiny, fresh cans of old world beer styles have been pouring onto our shelves from overseas. Long considered a drawback to the distinctive brews of Europe have been the exclusively-available large, glass cork-and-cage bottles that are typically sold at premium prices. What is one to do if you don’t want to down a whole 750ml bottle in an evening? Thankfully, the calls for consumer-friendly formats have been answered. Some of the finest imports are hitting shelves in four packs of 12 or 16 oz. cans for your enjoyment. Browse some of our favorite new products below.

Reissdorf Kölsch — $12.99/4pk 16oz Cans

The ales of Köln (Cologne), Germany are amongst the most pure and delightfully-refreshing in the world. Kölsch, the local pale, top-fermented beer, is in-fact name-protected as an appellation under federal law. All imitations brewed outside the city should be donned “kölsch-style.” Reissdorf Kölsch is top-fermented but undergoes a month of cold-conditioning, giving it a lager-like crispness and delicate profile. Slightly malty with faint fruitiness and a soft, dry palate.

Glazen Toren Saison D’Erpe Mere — $13.99/4pk 12oz Cans

Farmhouse ales were first brewed as provision ales for the farm workers in Wallonia, the French-speaking region of Belgium. While the category has multiple sub-styles, together they all feature a spicy, fruity yeast-driven nose and a well-carbonated, dry palate. The flagship offering of Glazen Toren, this saison has bright, yeasty lemony citrus notes with a hint of coriander and grassy hoppiness. Dry and lightly tart on the finish.

Praga Premium Pilsner — $7.99/4pk 16oz Cans

As birthplace of the pilsner style, the Czech Republic has a storied brewing tradition and standard for quality. What separates a Czech-style pilsner from the rest? Soft artesian water, which lends an undeniable smoothness, and locally-sourced Saaz hops, which impart an herbal, tangy finish. Praga Pils has a supple nutty, bready maltiness and a gentle spicy, herbal hop note.

Schneider Weisse Tap 6 Mein Aventinus Weizen Doppelbock — $15.99/4pk 16oz Cans

Weissebier, a historical family of brews once reserved for royalty and those in higher social classes, almost bordered extinction during the peak of pilsner popularity. It was the Schneider family that played a significant role in propping up this style during the tougher years. Now that demand has returned, Schneider Weissebiers are considered a benchmark in the category. Aventinus, their wheat doppelbock, is a hearty, warming beer that boasts notes of sweet, bready malt, raisins, banana, caramel and clove. Rich, yet smooth and quaffable.

…IPA, that is.

The seemingly annual tradition lives on. February has low-key become the seasonal month of Double IPA releases. It’s probably because Midwesterners are starting to get sick of winter by now, and need an extra kick in their glass. Whatever the reason, our beer cooler is packed to the gills with Double IPAs and it’s in your best interest to come buy some. Take a gander at some of the best we have to offer:

Lupulin/Surly Operation CoHoperation Double IPA — $15.99/4pk Cans

A collaboration between two local hop-stalwarts, this edition of CoHoperation features fruit cocktail hop aromas from Citra, Sultana, and Lotus hops and a thick, chewy, sweet-ish malt profile to back it up.

Pryes Above The Canopy Hazy Double IPA — $15.99/4pk Cans

Double dry-hopped with Mosaic, Samba, and Amarillo hops, Above the Canopy wafts tropical fruit aromas and a little hint of that resin-y, green green character.

Modist Future Pixels DDH Double IPA — $17.99/4pk Cans

You betcha’, this one is double dry-hopped too! Galaxy, Strata, and Sultana hops join forces to create a futuristically delicious hazy double.

Toppling Goliath Supa’ Sumo Double IPA — $17.99/4pk Cans

This Citra and Mosaic-hopped double IPA will pile drive your taste buds and then sit on them. Juicy pineapple and orange citrus notes with a heavy load of bitterness.

Bell’s Hopslam Double IPA — $16.99/6pk Cans

The beer that likely started this whole February Double IPA thing. First brewed in 2004, Hopslam has been the benchmark of this category for well over a decade. Brewed with six different hops and a big dollop of honey for a floral, fruity, sweet and bitter nirvana.

Three Floyds Arctic Panzer Wolf Imperial IPA — $13.99/4pk

As the awesome yet frightening label might suggest, Arctic Panzer Wolf is here to rip apart your palate with a massive 100 IBUs. Certainly an old-school take on the style, it boasts piney citrus hop notes with a rich malty core and lingering bitterness.

New year, new you! Hey, you really crushed it in 2019—you accomplished some goals, got a few projects done, hopefully treated yourself here and there. But 2020 brings you a fresh set of downs and you have resolved to make the most of them. Perhaps you will finally save enough to take that trip you’ve been planning; maybe you’re choosing to eat more vegetables and less cookies; you might even be choosing to cut back a bit on your adult beverage consumption—especially in the month of January. We totally respect that.

If you are trying to trim back on drinking without completely giving up your favorite liquid luxuries, we have a guilt-free suggestion for you: Low-alcohol, low-calorie craft beer! An appropriately-timed wave of these beers have landed in the Twin Cities, offering a sudsy solution to those who want to start the year off on the right foot. Check out some of our favorite recent arrivals below.

Fair State Dry January Dry-Hopped IPA — $9.99/4pk Cans

Accomplish your resolutions without complete abstinence from your favorite barley-based beverages. This session-able IPA rocks flavor without knocking you over. Tangerine-like citrus hop notes play atop a crisp, cracker-y malt profile with a lingering oily bitterness. 3.5% ABV. 105 Calories.

Odell Good Behavior IPA — $9.99/6pk Cans

This crushable IPA features everything you love about juicy IPAs but tightens a little slimmer at the waist. Fuzzy peach and mango aromas lead to a fresh, zesty citrus palate and pillow-y carbonation. Ooh that’s smooth. 4.0% ABV. 110 Calories.

Able Blk Wlf Stout — $9.99/4pk Cans

Blk Wlf is meant to confuse. It combines elements from multiple other stout varieties—Irish, American, oatmeal, and milk—into one dark but very easy-drinking “session” stout. Fresh coffee and cocoa notes on the nose, with flavors of bitter chocolate, nuts and a hint of caramel on the palate. 3.7% ABV. 111 Calories.

Sufferfest Repeat Kolsch-Style Ale — $9.99/6pk Cans

Concocted with bee pollen to add a honeyed floral aroma. Repeat Kolsch-style ale has grassy hop aromas with a bread-like maltiness. Hints of citrus and an herbal hop bite round out the balanced finish. 3.5% ABV. 95 Calories.

Lagunitas Hoppy Refresher — $5.49/4pk

The product that is a category unto itself. Lagunitas Hoppy Refresher has been a recent favorite of staff and customers alike. It’s an IPA-inspired refreshment with no alcohol, no calories, and no carbs. Citra, Equinox and Centennial hops that have been modified by a hint of brewer’s yeast will trick your nose into thinking that you’re about to drink an IPA. The palate is bright, fresh and invigorating. Try adding a dropper of Modist and Stigma’s collaboration CBD Dream Oil ($59.99/500mg bottle) for a relaxing way to recharge after a long day. 0.0% ABV. 0 Calories.